Bridget Flatow, Arts and Tech editor
@BFlatowCourant
As the fashion world embarks on a new season, designers are taking us on a journey through time, revisiting iconic styles and reimagining them for the modern era. As Paris, Milan, London and New York fashion weeks for the Autumn/Winter 2024 season come to an end, it is obvious each has left a mark, capturing the essence of bygone eras while infusing a contemporary flair. Among the standout collections, four shows have particularly resonated with me, each offering a unique perspective on fashion, from the revival of boho-chic to the celebration of simplicity.
Chloé
Chloé’s Fall 2024 collection emerges as an ode to the boho-chic aesthetic that defined the early 2000s. Designer Chemena Kamali, in her debut presentation for Chloe, transports us back to an era when Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen, Blake Lively as Serena in Gossip Girl and more 2000s icons were the epitome of laid-back luxury.
Kamali’s designs, reminiscent of Chloé’s 2000s era, feature ’70s flouncy hems, shirred necklines, snake necklaces, and wooden clogs. The collection not only pays homage to the brand’s heritage but also taps into the return of boho-chic which Vogue Runway says may be the response from the “mob-wife” trend.
Jose Criales-Unzueta explains the Boho-chic, almost “careless” aesthetic may also be a response to societal pressures in her article “Did Chloé Just Bring Back Boho-Chic?”, “People are craving softness in the face of so much heaviness and destruction in the world.”
Kamali’s collection doesn’t just replicate a popular aesthetic; it captures the essence of a mood that is both fun and playful. Making Chloé’s Fall 24 collection feel like a breath of fresh air.
Christian Dior
In stark contrast to the whimsical boho-chic of Chloe, Dior’s Autumn-Winter 2024 Ready-to-Wear collection, named Miss Dior, embraces the beauty of simplicity. The fashion house, synonymous with sophistication and elegance, takes a minimalist approach, emphasizing clean lines, classic silhouettes, and a refined color palette.
The concept of “keeping it simple” resonates throughout the collection, offering a timeless elegance that goes beyond fleeting trends. Miss Dior pays homage to the brand’s heritage while embracing a modern twist, proving that understated fashion can be just as impactful as bold statements.
“Miss Dior” in a graffiti like font was splashed onto several of the autumn-winter collection. The design came from a piece of hand-drawn advertising artwork made for the launch of the Miss Dior boutique in 1967.
Designer Maria Grazia Chiuri’s interest in this period stems from when Marc Bohan introduced a ready-to-wear collection, a groundbreaking move considering the brand’s focus on haute couture. Bohan’s vision recognized the changing times and the evolving preferences of women.
Unlike the cinched waists of the iconic Christian Dior New Look, Chiuri’s designs lean towards the angular ‘Mod’ look of the 1960s. This look represents a broader movement during the 60s, marked by youth culture and the beginnings of Women’s Liberation.
Tolu Coker
Tolu Coker’s showcase at London Fashion Week was nothing short of exhilarating, a vibrant blend of top-to-toe polish, sharp tailoring, and an infusion of West African influences. Personally, I find her collection not only incredibly cool but also remarkably versatile—pieces that could seamlessly transition from the runway to the bustling streets.
In a nod to the women roadside hawkers of Accra, Ghana, and West Africa, Coker decorated the end of the runways with a market stall, creating a visual celebration of female power. This vibrant energy was translated into her designs, featuring immaculate hair styling, high hats, and the unexpected yet stylish spike-heel Ugg boots.
Coker drew inspiration from her memory of her mother participating in the street-hawking culture in Lagos. Further, she incorporated pieces from her past collections into the show, emphasizing her commitment to sustainability. Coker breathes new life into clothes categorized as “waste”.
Tolu Coker’s collection not only captures the spirit of heritage but also radiates modern flair (and looks extraordinary “cool” at the same time).
Diesel
Designer Glenn Martens continues to bring innovation to the fashion world. The Fall 2024 Diesel collection is not just about clothes; it’s a show that breaks away from tradition and incorporates the brand’s consumers in a new way.
The clothes are a testament to Diesel’s core audience—crazily layered, intensely worked, and intentionally imperfect. The collection features synthetic hair, tufted knits, mixed-length faux furs, and reconstructed denim, knit, and jersey—creating a unique and purposefully imperfect sense of luxury.
“We are always trying to be an alternative in the industry. We belong in Fashion Week, but we are not a classic luxury brand; we are all about lifestyles. And we are about our communities and our friends and our families—so let’s try and bring them in.” Martens said in —-.
This Philosophy was evident in the show, which broadcasted a Zoom call with 1,000 meeting members on the walls of its catwalk and even including a similar zoom call on the prints of a couple of the pieces.
